Render admin page errors in the normal layout (closes #382)

Every 400, 403, 404 and 500 on an admin page now answers with an
error page in the normal layout: one fixed line for the status and a
link back to the webhook list, or to sign-in when nobody is signed
in. The router's handler for unknown paths, the CSRF middleware's
refusal and a panic in an admin page route group use the same page;
each such group has its own recoverer and error reporting for that.
The page always sends Cache-Control: no-store. Status codes are
unchanged. The receiver, the healthcheck and /metrics keep their
plain answers. If the error page cannot render, or panics, the answer
is the same status in plain text.

Model: opus-5-5

internal/middleware/logbound_test.go

@@ -260,7 +260,9 @@ func logSites() map[string]logSite {
 			) http.Handler {
 				t.Helper()
 
-				return m.CSRF()(unreachable(t))
+				return m.CSRF(http.HandlerFunc(forbidden))(
+					unreachable(t),
+				)
 			},
 			send:       postNoToken,
 			wantStatus: http.StatusForbidden,