Report the Go build info version when linker flags set none (closes #422)

A binary from go install, the README's first command, reported itself as version dev, a development build, although Go had recorded the tag it was built from. When the linker flags leave the version, commit or commit date unset, they are now filled in from the Go build info, so such a binary reports its tag and counts as a release. Builds through make, script/docker and goreleaser are unchanged.

Model: opus-5-5

script/version

@@ -11,8 +11,8 @@
 # when no tag is reachable, each with a "-dirty" suffix when tracked
 # files have uncommitted changes. Untracked files are ignored: a stray
 # scratch file does not change what was compiled. Outside a git checkout
-# (release tarball, `go install`), or in one with no commits, it is
-# "dev".
+# (such as an unpacked release tarball), or in one with no commits, it
+# is "dev".
 #
 # Nothing here ever invents a version number.
 set -eu