docker: run as non-root, add health check, document upaas (closes #147)

The runtime image runs as uid 10001, which owns /var/lib/dnswatcher. The
working directory is /, so config loading finds no .env or dnswatcher
config file there; the binary lives in /usr/local/bin. A Docker
HEALTHCHECK probes /.well-known/healthcheck every 10 seconds with busybox
wget, well inside the 60 seconds upaas waits.

Startup now fails with an error naming the data directory when it cannot
be written, instead of running with every save failing. The check creates
the directory if needed and writes and removes the temp file Save uses;
tests cover the create and the write failing.

README gains "Running under upaas": the prod branch, host directory
setup, network and port, environment and health check.

Model: opus-5-5

internal/state/state_test.go

@@ -553,6 +553,31 @@ func TestStartupFailsWhenDataDirNotWritable(t *testing.T) {
 	}
 }
 
+// TestStartupFailsWhenExistingDataDirNotWritable verifies that startup
+// stops when the data directory exists but the temp file that saving uses
+// cannot be written in it. A directory sitting at the temp file's path
+// makes that write fail, which also holds as root.
+func TestStartupFailsWhenExistingDataDirNotWritable(t *testing.T) {
+	t.Parallel()
+
+	dataDir := t.TempDir()
+
+	err := os.Mkdir(filepath.Join(dataDir, "state.json.tmp"), 0o700)
+	if err != nil {
+		t.Fatalf("creating directory: %v", err)
+	}
+
+	err = startState(t, dataDir)
+	if err == nil {
+		t.Fatal("startup should fail when the data directory is not writable")
+	}
+
+	want := "data directory " + dataDir + " is not writable"
+	if !strings.Contains(err.Error(), want) {
+		t.Errorf("startup error %q does not contain %q", err, want)
+	}
+}
+
 // TestStartupCreatesDataDir verifies that startup creates a missing
 // data directory and leaves nothing behind in it.
 func TestStartupCreatesDataDir(t *testing.T) {