docker: run as non-root, add health check, document upaas (closes #147)

The runtime image runs as uid 10001, which owns /var/lib/dnswatcher. The
working directory is /, so config loading finds no .env or dnswatcher
config file there; the binary lives in /usr/local/bin. A Docker
HEALTHCHECK probes /.well-known/healthcheck every 10 seconds with busybox
wget, well inside the 60 seconds upaas waits.

Startup now fails with an error naming the data directory when it cannot
be written, instead of running with every save failing. The check creates
the directory if needed and writes and removes the temp file Save uses;
tests cover the create and the write failing.

README gains "Running under upaas": the prod branch, host directory
setup, network and port, environment and health check.

Model: opus-5-5

internal/state/state.go

@@ -148,6 +148,11 @@ func New(
 
 	lifecycle.Append(fx.Hook{
 		OnStart: func(_ context.Context) error {
+			err := state.checkDataDirWritable()
+			if err != nil {
+				return err
+			}
+
 			return state.Load()
 		},
 		OnStop: func(_ context.Context) error {
@@ -345,3 +350,27 @@ func (s *State) GetCertificateState(
 
 	return cs, ok
 }
+
+// checkDataDirWritable creates the data directory if needed, then writes
+// and removes the temp file that Save uses. It runs at startup so that an
+// unwritable directory stops the process, instead of the process running
+// with every save failing and only logged.
+func (s *State) checkDataDirWritable() error {
+	dir := s.config.DataDir
+	tmpPath := s.config.StatePath() + ".tmp"
+
+	err := os.MkdirAll(dir, dirPermissions)
+	if err == nil {
+		err = os.WriteFile(tmpPath, nil, filePermissions)
+	}
+
+	if err == nil {
+		err = os.Remove(tmpPath)
+	}
+
+	if err != nil {
+		return fmt.Errorf("data directory %s is not writable: %w", dir, err)
+	}
+
+	return nil
+}